“I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.”
~Thomas Edison
I've had plenty of experience with research papers over my past three and a half years at Loyola. Both of my majors, history and anthropology, involve a lot of reading, writing, and at least one research paper per semester (but usually more). I am no stranger to the library and its bountiful resources.
This time around, as I continue my research on the jacket in the May Weber Collection, is another whole level of research. As I mentioned in my last post, I have almost nothing beyond the artifact itself and my own instincts to begin my research. It sounds like some sort of grand academic adventure, but it's also a lot like trying to find your way out of a maze without a map. You're never quite sure that you're going in the right direction, and there is always the lurking threat that you're about to hit a dead end, even if the clues seem to be pointing you in the right direction.
The trusty tools of a researcher: a book and a laptop
My jacket and some of the objects my fellow interns are researching.
This past week I've been following a maze-like trail of evidence to determine the origins of my jacket. Originally I agreed with what the old catalog recorded; the jacket looked like it could be European. After seeing images of European floral patterns, I realized that it actually looked less European and more non-Western, possibly Indian. The European floral textiles are usually more curvy and less geometric than the pattern on my jacket. This jacket still could have been exported to Europe, but it was almost definitely made in India. Despite being wrong about its origins, I learned that I was not crazy or making an ill-founded assumption when I thought that it came from Europe. Indian textiles were very popular imported goods in Europe and eventually the Europeans decided to make their own copies and variations, so naturally these styles have appeared in Western clothing throughout the past few centuries. After some more searching, I noticed that it resembled woodblock prints from the state of Rajasthan, India. It seemed to resemble most closely the floral woodblock patterns from Sanganer, a town near Jaipur renown for its woodblock prints. In fact, Sanganeri textiles are so special that they received their own geographical indication tag, which protects and ties a product and its characteristics to one geographical location. It is #119 on India's Geographical Indications Registry.
The red marker is on Jaipur and Sanganer is just past the end of the marker.
Despite many hours of googling, I couldn't find the exact pattern on my jacket anywhere on the internet. (Yes, I used an image search. I even searched Pinterest.) Unless I find an exact match, I can't solidly confirm that this jacket is a Sanganeri textile. You can imagine my frustration. I'm so close, and yet so far to a concrete answer.
BUT, I've found a very close match. An example of a woodblock print in Masterpieces of Indian Textiles, by Rustam J. Mehta shows the same overall design of three flowers surrounded by a diamond of flowers and leaves. My jacket has more leaves in the center design and more flowers in the diamond design, but this is the closest match I have found.
Ta-daaaa!!
The jacket and the woodblock print from the book-so similar!!
Even better is that some books from the May Weber Collection (All those books we organized in the beginning of the semester are coming in handy!!) support this connection with other patterns that are similar. Although, the above pattern is the most similar one I have found so far.
Boxes of books (and some empty boxes): still a "cardboard jungle" after all this time
A box of books about India
Over the next week I plan to continue researching and eventually organize everything I discovered about this jacket into a document that can be placed in the official records for this object. The exciting part is knowing that my research will be connected to this jacket for the rest of its time in the collection (in theory, for eternity). The scary part is that now my research will hold a decent amount of authority, yet I am not 100% sure that the jacket is what I think it is. It will be bittersweet if I come back in ten years and find out that I was horribly wrong about the jacket. However, this is one of the mixed blessings of having the opportunity to be among the first to work with the May Weber Collection. It's all uncharted territory.
Stay tuned for next week's post, and thanks for reading!!










































